Saint Laurent Unveils Romantic Gothic Spring/Summer 2026 Collection

Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2026 womenswear collection was unveiled this week by Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello in a captivating fashion show held in Paris. The event, set against the iconic backdrop of the Eiffel Tower, featured a star-studded audience including celebrities such as Zoe Kravitz, Hailey Bieber, Charli XCX, and pop icon Madonna alongside her daughter Lourdes Leon.

The runway was adorned with an impressive arrangement of white hydrangeas, forming the letters “YSL.” This floral display added to the cinematic ambiance, highlighting the collection’s blend of romance and gothic elements. Vaccarello’s vision for the collection draws heavily on the historical codes of Yves Saint Laurent, reinterpreting them through a modern lens.

Aesthetic as a Language

In the show notes, Vaccarello emphasized that “at Saint Laurent, aesthetics are a language.” He noted that this language transcends mere visuals, expressing broader themes that touch on art, society, and politics. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection reflects this philosophy, showcasing clothing as a form of discourse that fosters connection and nuance in a fragmented world.

Models showcased a range of signature silhouettes, featuring oversized leather outerwear and tailored button-up shirts paired with striking, bow-shaped ties. Pencil midi skirts served to cinch the looks, embodying a blend of practicality and drama. Vaccarello stated that “the Saint Laurent woman is both heroine and classic, singular and multifaceted,” a sentiment reflected in the duality of the collection.

Contrasting Styles and Hero Pieces

This season’s offerings include workwear-inspired pieces alongside dramatic gowns, demonstrating a balance of influences. Notable items include vibrant leather and nylon trench coats as well as sporty midi dresses crafted from similar materials. The collection juxtaposes black leather-clad figures reminiscent of modern-day princesses with crowned jewels, a nod to the late photographer Robert Mapplethorpe.

The presentation captured enigmatic women asserting power through flowing fabrics and bold color palettes, echoing inspirations from historical figures like the Duchess of Guermantes and John Singer Sargent’s renowned “Madame X.” Each garment serves as a visual and symbolic argument, reinforcing Vaccarello’s belief that “beauty is plural.”

As the fashion industry continues to evolve, Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection stands out as an embodiment of aesthetic resistance, respect, and inclusion. The collection not only defines contemporary fashion but also invites a dialogue that resonates deeply with the modern audience.

The show has left a lasting impression, cementing Saint Laurent’s place at the forefront of fashion innovation as it navigates the intricate balance between historical homage and contemporary expression.