Mark Thomas Takes Helm as Design Director at Carven

Mark Thomas officially steps into his role as the design director of Carven, marking a new chapter for the storied Parisian fashion house. The 49-year-old British designer was appointed to the position in March 2023, following the departure of Louise Trotter to Bottega Veneta. Notably, Thomas is the only designer debuting this season who has risen from within Carven’s existing team.

Trotter’s exit was announced in December 2022, after which Thomas oversaw the development of the Fall/Winter 2025 and pre-fall collections, both presented as lookbooks earlier this year. As he prepares for the Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Thomas draws inspiration from the essence of summer in Paris, envisioning what women will wear during the balmy months. “This collection is a little bit more sensual than what we’ve done previously,” he states from his office located at the iconic Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées, the original site of the brand founded by Marie-Louise Carven in 1945.

Reviving Carven is no small feat, especially considering the brand’s turbulent history. In early 2018, Carven filed for bankruptcy and was subsequently acquired by China’s Icicle Group, now known as the Icicle Carven China France Group (ICCF). The brand has experienced significant creative shifts, with Guillaume Henry serving as creative director from 2009 to 2014, followed by a brief tenure from a duo of directors, Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud, who left in 2016. Before Trotter, Serge Ruffieux held the position for three seasons before departing in 2018.

During Trotter’s time, she and Thomas began cultivating a design language that emphasized sophistication, minimalism, and wearability. Thomas intends to build on this foundation, noting, “We are really happy with where we’ve arrived. Collections have only been in-store for about a year and a half, so there’s no need to break what’s starting to work.”

Currently, Carven operates two boutiques in Paris and two in Shanghai, with plans for further expansion in the Chinese market. The brand also collaborates with approximately 50 wholesale stockists, including notable names like Harrods in London, Printemps in New York, and Antonia in Milan. While the company has opted not to disclose its turnover, Thomas highlights the advantage of being under the umbrella of Icicle, a profitable company with its own factories. This relationship allows Carven to produce smaller quantities, a challenge often faced by smaller designers.

The brand’s pricing strategy positions it strategically within the luxury market, appealing to consumers who are increasingly cautious about high prices. The Carmen bag is priced at €1,690, while a turtleneck cardigan and a sheer wrap skirt are both available for €790, and a belted coat retails for €1,990. Thomas emphasizes that these prices reflect the quality of the materials and the technical expertise involved in their production. “We spend a lot of time in fittings to perfect things,” he adds.

Thomas’s journey into fashion began in South East London, where he grew up in a working-class family. Initially considering a career in finance, he was encouraged by an art teacher to pursue fashion. After completing his BA at Ravensbourne University, he was directed towards Central Saint Martins, where he earned an MA under the mentorship of the esteemed professor Louise Wilson.

His early career included nine years at British designer Neil Barrett’s label in Milan, followed by roles at Givenchy and Joseph, where he was head of menswear under Trotter’s guidance. He briefly served as creative director at Helmut Lang before reuniting with Trotter at Lacoste, where he led the men’s division and various collaborations.

Inspired by the “joyful spirit” of Carven’s founder, who passed away in 2015 at the age of 105, Thomas aims to encapsulate her essence in the upcoming collection. He recalls her unique personality, saying, “If you live to 105, you’ve got to be doing something right.”

For the Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Thomas found inspiration in a book about the house, which details how Madame Carven collaborated with botanist Marcel Lecoufle to create a white orchid with a green center. This concept of sensuality and strength influences the collection, which will feature garments that subtly reference floral elements.

The first part of the collection will showcase a palette of whites and écrus, serving as a fresh start for the brand. Thomas aims to honor the founder’s French heritage by utilizing “Made in France” fabrics, including silk and moiré pieces. The collection will be presented in a unique setting at the maison’s headquarters, creating an intimate atmosphere for attendees.

In preparation for the show, Thomas collaborated with stylist Emilie Kareh and engaged a London-based DJ from the music platform NTS to curate the soundtrack. The event is designed to offer a serene experience amidst the chaotic fashion season, positioning Carven as a moment of calm and comfort. “It will smell great. It will feel comfortable,” Thomas promises, as he invites guests into the brand’s world before reintroducing them to the vibrant landscape of fashion.